1. The Fundamentals of Tea Evaluation

Tea evaluation is a meticulous and sensory journey that involves understanding the various categories and varieties of tea, as well as employing key evaluation criteria. This chapter delves into the fundamental aspects of tea evaluation, ranging from the primary types of Chinese tea to the sensory dimensions used in their assessment.

1.1 Tea Categories and Varieties

China is the birthplace of tea, and its rich tea culture has given rise to a diverse array of tea types. The main categories of Chinese tea include Green, Black, Oolong, White, Pu-erh, and Yellow tea. Each type has distinct characteristics that make it unique.

1.2 Key Evaluation Criteria

To evaluate these teas effectively, professionals use a set of key criteria that encompass visual, olfactory, and gustatory aspects. Each of these dimensions plays a crucial role in the overall assessment of tea quality.

1.3 The Role of Different Senses in Tea Evaluation

Using different senses in tea evaluation allows for a comprehensive assessment. The visual, olfactory, and gustatory aspects combine to form a holistic understanding of the tea's quality. Each sense offers unique insights: sight provides initial impressions, smell digs deeper into the complexities of the tea, and taste confirms the overall excellence.

2. Visual Evaluation

Visual evaluation is an essential first step in assessing the quality of Chinese tea. This process involves a meticulous examination of both the dry and wet leaves, as well as the appearance of the tea liquor. By closely scrutinizing these elements, one can gain initial insights into the tea's quality, freshness, and potential brewing characteristics.

2.1 Leaf Appearance

Dry Leaves: The evaluation begins with a thorough inspection of the dry leaves. High-quality tea leaves exhibit specific characteristics that reflect careful processing and optimal storage conditions. Here are the key aspects to observe:

• Color: The color of dry leaves varies depending on the type of tea. For instance, green tea leaves should possess a vibrant, fresh green hue, indicating that they have been processed correctly to prevent oxidation. By contrast, black tea leaves should be dark, often with hints of amber or copper, signifying a full oxidation process. Consistency in color is crucial; any discoloration can indicate improper processing or poor storage.
• Shape: The shape of the tea leaves can also be a quality indicator. Well-processed leaves are usually uniform in shape, whether they are twisted, rolled, or flat. For example, Longjing green tea is known for its flat, spear-like leaves, while Tieguanyin oolong tea often features tightly rolled, spherical leaves.
• Size: Leaf size can differ widely between tea types. However, within a single variety, the size should be relatively consistent. Large variations in leaf size may suggest the inclusion of lower-quality leaves or stems.
• Consistency: A high-quality batch of tea will have a uniform appearance in terms of color, shape, and size. Inconsistencies might signal adulteration or a mix of different batches.

Wet Leaves: Once the tea is brewed, the wet leaves, also known as the "infused leaves" or "spent leaves," offer further insights:

• Expansion: Upon brewing, the leaves should expand fully, revealing their true size and shape. High-quality leaves unfurl completely, showing their plumpness and vitality. Inadequate expansion may indicate poor quality or over-processing.
• Texture: The texture of wet leaves should feel supple and soft to the touch, not brittle or overly stiff. This pliability signifies that the leaves were handled with care during processing.
• Uniformity: Just like the dry leaves, the wet leaves should also display uniformity. Leaves that differ greatly in texture or appearance might indicate a mixed batch, which can affect the overall flavor profile.

2.2 Liquor Appearance

After examining both the dry and wet leaves, the next step is to evaluate the appearance of the tea liquor. The liquor provides visual cues about the tea's quality and can influence the overall tasting experience. Key aspects to consider include:

• Clarity: High-quality tea liquor should be clear and transparent, free from dust or other particulates. Cloudiness or sediment can indicate inferior processing or contamination. For example, premium green teas produce a lucid, almost sparkling mug of tea, while a properly brewed black tea will be deep but clear.
• Color: The color of the liquor varies with different tea types and serves as an indicator of correct processing and brewing. Green teas typically produce a light yellow or greenish hue, black teas range from reddish-brown to dark amber, and oolong teas can vary widely between greenish-yellow to deep orange. The color should be vibrant and consistent, reflecting the tea's inherent characteristics.
• Brightness: A high-quality tea liquor will have a bright, lively appearance, signifying freshness and proper brewing. Dullness or flatness in the liquor's appearance may indicate stale tea or improper brewing techniques.

3. Olfactory Evaluation

Olfactory, or aromatic, evaluation is a critical step in assessing the quality and characteristics of Chinese tea. The aroma of tea leaves, both dry and wet, and the brewed liquor can offer deep insights into its origin, processing, and quality. This chapter delves into the methodical process of olfactory evaluation, focusing on the initial scent profile, changes upon infusion, and the unique aromatic compounds present in tea.

3.1 Dry Leaves Aroma

Initial Scent Profile: The first step in olfactory evaluation begins with examining the aroma of the dry leaves. This initial scent can provide important clues about the tea's quality and freshness. For high-quality teas, the dry leaves typically exhibit a clear, inviting aroma. For example, green teas may present fresh, grassy, or vegetal notes, while black teas can emit rich, malty, or fruity scents. Oolong teas might offer floral or roasted aromas, indicative of their partial oxidation process.

High vs. Low-Quality Indicators: High-quality dry leaves will have a pronounced and balanced aroma without any off-putting or musty notes. Freshness should be apparent; the leaves should not smell flat or stale. For instance, a premium Dragon Well (Longjing) green tea will have a distinct chestnut aroma, while lower-quality versions might lack this clarity and richness. Conversely, low-quality teas may smell dull, overly astringent, or sour, indicating improper storage or subpar processing. The presence of off-notes such as mildew or mustiness in dry leaves is a clear marker of poor quality.

3.2 Wet Leaves Aroma

Changes Upon Infusion: When the leaves are infused, their aromatic profile undergoes significant transformation. The wet leaves should release an even stronger and more complex scent compared to the dry leaves. This stage is crucial for revealing the tea's true essence. For green tea, the wet leaves should enhance the fresh, grassy aroma, often with added sweet or nutty notes. Black tea leaves might deepen into more complex, malty, and sometimes fruity scents.

Identification of Complex Scents: As the leaves unfurl in water, it becomes easier to detect a range of nuanced aromas. These might include floral notes in oolong teas, earthy and mushroomy aromas in aged Pu-erh, or the soft, sweet smell of white tea. High-quality teas exhibit a complex and harmonious blend of scents. For example, a high-grade Tie Guan Yin oolong might reveal layers of gardenia, honey, and roasted nuts, making each sniff a new and enriching experience. Identifying these complex scents helps to further confirm the quality of the tea.

3.3 Liquor Aroma

Congruence with Dry and Wet Leaves: The final aspect of aromatic evaluation involves smelling the brewed tea liquor. A key indicator of a well-balanced and high-quality tea is the consistency of aroma across the dry leaves, wet leaves, and liquor. The tea liquor's aroma should be a harmonious extension of what was detected in the dry and wet leaves. For instance, if the dry leaves of a Da Hong Pao oolong smell floral and the wet leaves enhance this with a hint of roasted notes, the liquor should encapsulate these aromas in a well-balanced infusion.

Noting Unique Aromatic Compounds: High-quality tea liquors often contain unique aromatic compounds that set them apart from lower-quality teas. These compounds might include volatile organic compounds like linalool, which imparts floral fragrances, or high levels of theanine that contribute to a sweeter, umami-rich scent. Recognizing and appreciating these unique aromatic compounds can greatly enhance tea evaluation skills. For example, detecting the special mineral aroma in certain rock oolongs or the camphor scent in aged Pu-erh teas can help identify exceptional teas.

4. Gustatory Evaluation

Gustatory, or taste-based, evaluation is the ultimate test of a tea's quality and complexity. By focusing on the initial taste, mouthfeel, and aftertaste, one can discern the unique characteristics of different teas. Understanding these aspects allows tea connoisseurs to appreciate the full sensory experience that a high-quality tea offers. This chapter explores the nuances of gustatory evaluation, including the criteria for specific teas.

4.1 Initial Taste

Sweetness, Bitterness, and Umami Balance: The initial taste of tea is the immediate sensation perceived upon taking the first sip. This encompasses the primary flavors such as sweetness, bitterness, and umami, which should be well-balanced in a high-quality tea.

• Sweetness: Often found in white and green teas, a sweet note can indicate young, tender leaves and careful processing. High-grade teas like Baihao Yinzhen (Silver Needle) should have a subtle, natural sweetness without any artificial saccharine quality.
• Bitterness: While a touch of bitterness can add complexity, an overwhelming bitter taste suggests oversteeping or poor leaf quality. For example, a slight bitterness in a green tea like Longjing is acceptable and can contribute to its refreshing profile, but it should never dominate.
• Umami: This savory quality is particularly prominent in high-quality green teas and certain shaded teas like Gyokuro. It adds a rich, full-bodied dimension to the flavor, enhancing the overall tasting experience.

4.2 Mouthfeel

4.2.1 Texture

Thickness, Smoothness, and Astringency: Mouthfeel refers to the texture and physical sensation of the tea in the mouth. A tea's texture can significantly influence its overall enjoyment and is a marker of its quality.

• Thickness: A good tea has a thickness or body that gives a full-mouth sensation. For instance, an aged Pu-erh typically features a viscous, almost syrupy texture, which adds depth and richness to its profile.
• Smoothness: Smoothness is a desirable trait, indicating well-processed leaves and proper brewing. An oolong like Da Hong Pao should feel buttery and smooth on the palate, contrasting beautifully with its floral and mineral notes.
• Astringency: While astringency is a natural element of tea, it should be balanced. Excessive astringency can dry out the mouth and overshadow other flavors. A moderate astringency can add to the refreshing nature of a tea, such as in young Sheng Pu-erh.

4.2.2 Aftertaste

Length, Complexity, and How Flavors Evolve: The aftertaste is the lingering flavor that remains after swallowing, offering valuable insights into the tea's complexity and quality.

• Length: High-quality teas often have a long-lasting aftertaste, sometimes lingering for minutes. The ability of the flavor to persist is a hallmark of premium tea.
• Complexity: The aftertaste should reveal layers of flavors that bloom and shift over time. For instance, a high-grade Da Hong Pao rock oolong may leave a lasting sweet, floral note, evolving into a warm, toasted finish.
• Flavor Evolution: The way flavors change and develop after swallowing indicates the tea's depth and character. This dynamic evolution is particularly notable in complex teas such as aged Pu-erh, where you might initially taste deep earthiness, followed by sweet, medicinal notes.

4.2.3 Criteria for Specific Teas

Example: Identifying the Characteristic Tastes in Longjing, Da Hong Pao, etc.:

Each type of tea has distinctive flavor markers that can help in its identification and evaluation.

• Longjing (Dragon Well): Known for its fresh, chestnut-like flavor, Longjing is prized for its gentle sweetness, slight bitterness, and smooth, rounded body. The aftertaste is typically lingering and slightly floral.
• Da Hong Pao (Red Robe): This famous rock oolong variety is celebrated for its rich, robust flavors with a deep, mineral complexity. The initial taste is often sweet and floral with a hint of roasted nuts, transitioning to a smooth, creamy texture, and a long-lasting, slightly sweet aftertaste with mineral notes.
• Baihao Yinzhen (Silver Needle): As a top-grade white tea, it exhibits a delicate, sweet flavor with subtle vegetal notes. The mouthfeel is smooth and silky, with a clean, refreshing aftertaste.

5. Professional Tea Sommelier Techniques

Becoming a proficient tea sommelier involves mastering several specialized techniques that encompass brewing methods, palate training exercises, and methods for recording and scoring tea. These techniques ensure that tea evaluators can assess tea consistently and accurately, leading to a more profound appreciation of its complexities. This chapter delves into the professional methods used by tea sommeliers.

5.1 Brewing Methods for Evaluation

Standardized Procedures: The brewing method is critical in tea evaluation since it directly impacts the flavors and aromas that are released from the leaves. For a consistent and fair evaluation, standardized procedures are essential. This means following a set protocol for brewing each type of tea to ensure that the variables are controlled and the results are replicable. Without standardized brewing methods, comparing teas across different sessions would be unreliable.

Parameters:

Water Temperature, Tea-to-Water Ratio, Steeping Time: Three key parameters must be meticulously controlled during the brewing process:

• Water Temperature: Different teas require specific water temperatures to brew correctly. For instance, green teas usually need temperatures between 160-180°F (70-80°C) to prevent bitterness, while dark teas can be brewed at higher temperatures around 200-212°F (93-100°C) to extract their rich flavors fully. Oolong teas typically require a middle-ground temperature, often around 185-205°F (85-96°C).
• Tea-to-Water Ratio: The amount of tea leaves used in relation to the water volume is crucial. A common ratio is 2 grams of tea per 100 milliliters of water. Precision ensures that the tea's strength is appropriate for tasting and evaluation without being overly concentrated or too weak.
• Steeping Time: The duration of steeping is another vital parameter. Over-steeping can result in bitterness and astringency, while under-steeping might fail to bring out the full spectrum of flavors. Specific recommendations differ based on the tea type: green teas generally steep for 1-3 minutes, black teas for 3-5 minutes, and oolongs can range from 3-7 minutes depending on oxidation levels.

5.2 Palate Training Exercises

Developing Dimensional Taste Perception: A refined palate is essential for a tea sommelier. This involves developing the ability to perceive and distinguish intricate flavor dimensions. Regularly participating in guided tasting sessions helps sommeliers familiarize themselves with the unique profiles of various teas. Comparing different grades of the same tea type enhances sensitivity to subtle differences in flavor, aroma, and mouthfeel.

Practice with Non-Tea Items to Enhance Flavor Recognition: To bolster their sensory evaluation skills, tea sommeliers often practice with non-tea items known for their distinct flavors and aromas. Tasting sessions involving fruits, herbs, spices, and even wines can heighten a sommelier's ability to identify and articulate specific flavor notes. For example, recognizing the floral sweetness in lychee or the earthy undertones in mushrooms can translate to more precise flavor identification in teas.

5.3 Recording and Scoring

Methods to Document and Score Findings: Consistent documentation and scoring of tea evaluations are imperative for maintaining an objective and systematic approach. Professional tea sommeliers use detailed tasting sheets to record their observations. These sheets typically include sections for visual, olfactory, and gustatory analysis, along with spaces for notes on leaf appearance, liquor color, aroma, flavor, mouthfeel, and aftertaste.

Consistent and Objective Assessment Criteria: To ensure objectivity, evaluators adhere to a standardized scoring system, often on a numerical scale. Each aspect of the tea is rated based on predefined criteria, such as intensity, balance, complexity, and harmony. For example, a typical scoring sheet might allocate points for aspects like leaf quality, aroma strength, flavor richness, and mouthfeel smoothness. This consistent framework allows for meaningful comparisons across different teas and tasting sessions.

6. The Role of Environment in Tea Tasting

The environment in which tea tasting occurs plays a crucial role in ensuring an unbiased and accurate evaluation. Properly setting the scene and minimizing external influences can significantly affect the accuracy of flavor, aroma, and overall quality assessments. This chapter explores the ideal conditions necessary for a successful tea tasting session and highlights the factors that need to be controlled for consistency and precision.

6.1 Setting the Scene

Creating an ideal environment for tea tasting is essential to achieve unbiased evaluations. An ideal setting ensures that all sensory inputs are purely from the tea itself, without interference from external factors. The location should be quiet and free from distractions, allowing the taster to focus solely on the tea.

6.2 Ideal Environment for an Unbiased Evaluation

The room used for tea tasting should be clean and well-ventilated, as fresh air helps maintain an alert and sensitive palate. The temperature should be comfortable, neither too hot nor too cold, as extreme temperatures can affect taste perception. Additionally, the tasting table should be clutter-free, providing ample space for setting up tea cups, tools, and notebooks for recording observations.

6.3 Minimizing External Influences

To ensure a fair and accurate assessment, it is crucial to minimize external influences that can alter the sensory experience. One of the main factors to control is the presence of strong smells. Perfumes, food odors, and cleaning agents can overpower or alter the subtle aromas of the tea, leading to skewed evaluations. Therefore, it is best to conduct tea tastings in a scent-free zone.

Another important consideration is sound. Loud noises or background chatter can distract tasters and impede concentration. A quiet environment allows for deeper focus, making it easier to detect and appreciate the nuanced flavors and aromas of the tea.

Finally, the palate should be clean and neutral before starting the tasting session. This means avoiding strong foods or beverages such as coffee, alcohol, or spicy foods for at least an hour before tasting. Some professional tasters even recommend rinsing the mouth with warm water before beginning to ensure a fresh start.

6.4 Importance of Neutral Backgrounds, Lighting, and Absence of Strong Smells

Neutral backgrounds are essential for visual evaluation. The color of the tea liquor can be best observed against a white or light-colored background, which highlights its clarity, brightness, and hue. Using a white or neutral-colored tablecloth and teaware can help achieve this.

Proper lighting is equally important. Natural daylight is ideal, as it provides the most accurate representation of colors. If natural light is not available, using full-spectrum or daylight-balanced artificial lighting can be a good alternative. Avoid using colored or dim lighting, as it can distort the perception of the tea's color and affect the overall evaluation process.

As mentioned earlier, the absence of strong smells is critical. Even subtle fragrances in the environment can interfere with the olfactory evaluation of the tea. It is advisable to conduct tea tastings in a scent-neutral room, away from kitchens, bathrooms, or other areas where strong odors are prevalent.

7. Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them

Evaluating tea is both an art and a science. While sensory assessment is subjective to some extent, certain objective methods can help achieve more accurate results. However, several common mistakes can compromise the integrity of the evaluation process. This chapter explores these errors and offers strategies to avoid them, focusing on brewing and tasting errors and biases in sensory perception.

7.1 Errors in Brewing and Tasting

One of the most frequent pitfalls in tea evaluation involves errors during the brewing process. Proper brewing is crucial to unlocking the full potential of any tea, and mistakes can lead to misleading sensory evaluations.

• Oversteeping: Oversteeping is a common error that can result in bitter or astringent tea, masking its true flavor profile. To avoid oversteeping, it is essential to adhere to recommended steeping times. For example, green teas typically require 1-3 minutes, black teas 3-5 minutes, and oolongs can range from 3-7 minutes depending on their oxidation levels. Using a timer can help maintain consistency in steeping times.
• Incorrect Temperature: Water temperature plays a vital role in brewing tea. Different teas have specific temperature requirements, and using water that is too hot or too cold can significantly alter the taste. For instance, green teas typically require lower temperatures (160-180°F or 70-80°C) to prevent bitterness, while dark teas need higher temperatures (200-212°F or 93-100°C) to extract their robust flavors fully. Using a thermometer ensures the water is at the optimal temperature for the type of tea being brewed.
• Tea-to-Water Ratio: Another common mistake is using an incorrect tea-to-water ratio. A standard ratio is 2 grams of tea per 100 milliliters of water. Deviating from this can result in tea that is too concentrated or too dilute, which can skew the tasting experience. Using a precise scale to measure the tea leaves helps maintain this ratio consistently.

7.2 Bias in Sensory Perception

Sensory perception is inherently subjective, and biases can easily creep into the evaluation process. These biases can stem from various sources, including expectations, previous experiences, and even the environment in which the tasting occurs.

• Influence of Expectations: Expectations can significantly influence how a tea is perceived. For example, if a taster knows they are evaluating a high-end, expensive tea, they might subconsciously expect it to taste better, leading to a biased evaluation. To counteract this, blind tasting is an effective method. By evaluating teas without knowing their identity or price, tasters can focus solely on the sensory properties of the tea, leading to a more objective assessment.
• Previous Experiences: Previous experiences with a particular type of tea can also color current evaluations. If a taster has previously had a poor experience with a certain tea, they might be predisposed to a negative assessment, regardless of the current tea's quality. Regular palate cleansing between tastings and taking notes without preconceived notions can help mitigate the influence of past experiences.
• Environmental Factors: The environment can also introduce biases. For instance, strong smells or noises can distract the taster and alter the sensory experience. Conducting tastings in a controlled, neutral environment helps minimize these external influences. Additionally, using consistent lighting and neutral backgrounds ensures that the visual aspects of the tea are evaluated fairly.